Laundry Day at Black Point - and a Few Surprises!

Our friends, Anne and Reg, arrived in Staniel Cay last week, so we stayed to have lunch with them on Saturday at the Yacht Club. We were planning to spend the week exploring after that, before they would join us on our boat on February 1^st. But we were stopped in our tracks by the wind again, so we’ve been waiting it out, hunkered down behind a big rock shelter on the back of Thunderball Grotto.

Hallelujah – today the weather forecast was for calm winds and flat seas, so we decided to motor the 1.5 hours to Black Point, where they have a superb laundromat (a real sailor’s “scene”). The boat batteries needed a boost, and my captain needed to swing the compass (circling in calm water while making adjustments) – so this seemed like the perfect opportunity! We would stay overnight and head back to Staniel in the morning – still predicted to be calm weather before another big blow.

The first surprise when we arrived was being told, as we pulled our dinghy up to the laundromat dock, that the power was out, and it would be hours before we’d get any machines, as everything was backed up. We went in anyway, and indeed found a huge crowd of frustrated sailors waiting for their half-finished loads to start up again. It was a good opportunity for “shmoozing”, though, and eventually the power was restored and all of our washes got done (4 hours later – island time). A lovely walk among the island’s many flowering bushes helped pass the time (pics below).

But while that was happening, the weather suddenly changed – a huge West wind riled up the water, so that our trip back to Sea Change in our dinghy was treacherous, on three-foot crashing waves. Just getting in and out of that small boat was a challenge, as it bounced and bucked like a bronco in the crazy seas! And now the calm harbour was a mess, with no protection from a West wind. “Let’s get out of here” pronounced my captain, and his first (and only) mate agreed. So off we went in the 4-foot rollers, back to the protection of Staniel Cay. 

That would have been fine, except for the third surprise – in our hurry to leave, we neglected to batten down the forward hatch. Ooops – a bow berth filled with sea water from the crashing waves, soaking the bed which our guests would be using in two days L.

The day finished with a bar-b-que that wouldn’t work, despite all the repairs it’s had – so we just wrote it off as a very bad day – hopefully, tomorrow will be an improvement. We’re planning to just stay put and dry out the boat.

Goin' Aground

It has to happen sometimes on the Bank side of the Exumas. Extremely shallow water prevails, and at low tide, the depth goes down to 0 below the keel at times.

The morning promised a beautiful day. We were finally able to leave the harbour we’ve been stuck in for a week, because of extremely high winds and crazy seas.

So off we went for an hour-long excursion to Little Pipe Cay, which was new to us. Prominent sandbanks made for lovely colour changes in the water, and a 20-minute dinghy ride took us to the end of Tamarind Cay, where we jumped into the turquoise ocean and snorkelled a gorgeous coral reef. Many different kinds of coral delighted us – fan, brain, elkhorn, basket, staghorn, finger, green cactus, among others. There were tons of fish of all kinds, and a large sting ray smoothly glided by us – hardly noticing our presence. As we dinghied back, a huge sea turtle swam by and then dove as we approached. What a treat!

Then a short trip took us back to Staniel Cay, and that’s where the excitement really began! We were just about at our destination, when the I-pad we were using for navigation ran out of juice. We knew where we were at that point, but had no depth chart. Oh-oh – the tide was low, and before we knew it, we were aground! Not a tragedy with a sandy bottom – but here we sit, having eaten dinner, waiting for the tide to rise enough to float the boat, so that we can re-anchor away from this very shallow mound we’re perched on L.

The only worry is that, before we have a chance to re-anchor, the boat will float into our neighbour just behind. So we’re standing watch as the tide steadily rises. Wish us luck!

Can Pigs Really Swim?

The answer is “yes” – though we didn’t see any sign of that today. When we approached Pig Beach at 2:00 pm, the inhabitants were all having a siesta. Though they woke quickly when I pulled out a bag of carrots, and I was immediately surrounded by huge, various-coloured animals, nudging me with their snouts to feed them.

Normally, they will swim out to your dinghy for handouts. But we once had the experience of having one try to get in with us. Somehow a 300 lb. porker sitting in our laps didn’t appeal – so we went to their beach instead, to visit them.

The back story is that during Y2K, the local Bahamians were worried about their food supply from the US being cut off – so they “seeded” Big Major Cay with pigs for food. Since the disaster didn’t materialize, the pigs weren’t eaten, and began to propagate – resulting in an island full of feral pigs, that are now being fed instead of being eaten by the locals and the tourists. Their learned skill of swimming out to the dinghies has made them a well-known tourist attraction, prized by the Bahamians. There have even been books written about them!

Apart from visiting the swimming pigs, we've spent a restful week waiting out the most recent cold front in the spacious bay near Staniel Cay. Yesterday we had a “sundowner” on our boat with a Canadian couple we met here, and our days have been filled with work in the mornings - Schulich, boat, etc., and afternoons exploring in the dinghy, and hanging out on near-by beaches. Then happy hour - usually with tea or a “Bahama Mama” (rum and juice), and a snack. 

Tomorrow we leave the harbour for points unknown as yet .. we'll keep you posted on the blog. For now, life is good (despite cleaning toilet parts with muriatic acid - below!)

Jeff's story

Here's Jeff's take on the last week ....

Re. Our sailing trip, I'm reminded that this is much more a type A adventure challenge than a holiday. Just what we're looking for, I guess.

Got 2 days north, then one day back to get the plane. When we got back we had 2 long days north to protection from the fairly extreme weather coming. 2 very rough and crazy days!... Before it got worse! 

Now finally hanging out for a while, after moving to a less rolly anchorage early this morning. Last nite was nuts. Hard to stand up! We we're in a spot with a lot of current, with wind coming at a right angle to the current. So we stream with the current and every time it blows we roll. 

Now at anchor while fitting in part days on boat jobs. Getting to things that have intimidated me for several years. Like working with muriatic acid to clean out the sewage lines and valves. Salt water and urine produce a calcium deposit that will plug everything up!

Again, we're reflecting that this is much more a challenging adventure then a holiday. But it does get easier as we learn. We're starting to feel like old salts!

What a Difference an Hour makes!

Well, ok – so it’s -30 in Toronto, and we’re generally glad not to be there. Cold is not our problem here – but too much wind is. It’s been blowing 25 knots (more than MPH) – which may not sound like that much to a sailor, but the ocean roils up and makes for extremely rolly passages. We did two of those from Emerald Bay to Staniel Cay, and by the time we arrived two nights ago, we were very ready for a safe harbour. The first night was fine, and we even dinghyed into Staniel yesterday for water and provisions. We left a “welcome to paradise” gift for our friends, Anne and Reg, who will be arriving on Thursday for a week in a cottage, before coming to the boat for another week. Before leaving the Cay we had a great lunch at Staniel Cay Yacht Club, and made it back to the boat just as the wind came up several notches.

I spent the rest of the afternoon watercolour painting on the deck, noticing that it was becoming increasingly rolly in the harbour. By dinnertime the boat was bouncing around so much, we needed to gimble the stove to cook (for non-sailors that means letting the stove swing free to keep the top horizontal). That’s usually not necessary except on the open ocean! We were getting the surge from wind and current moving in opposite directions, not far from the cut to the deep sea – no danger, but very uncomfortable L - we could barely stand up!

All night like that convinced us to move – so at 7:30 this morning, along with a parade of other boats, we weighed anchor, and within an hour, our world had changed. We are now in a quiet harbour near “Pig Beach”. It’s wide open to the West, which is why we didn’t go there in the first place – but the wind is from the East now – stronger still, but we’re completely sheltered from that direction. We celebrated with a blueberry pancake breakfast. :) We may even jump into the dinghy later and visit the wild pigs on the beach, who like to swim out to the boats to be fed. Pig pictures and story in the next blog post...

Back in the Saddle Again

We returned from Jeff’s Mom’s funeral in Toronto two days ago. It was a lovely, simple service, graveside, in the freezing cold last Sunday, followed by an afternoon shiva to which about 50 people showed up (surprising, given that Shyrle was 98!). People spoke of her as a kind, gentle soul – always smiling and positive. Though those who remember her from the years before alzheimer’s described a “dynamo” who never stopped. She had been a vet of WW2, serving with her doctor husband in the Canadian Red Cross.

So now we’re back in the Bahamas, and having rested up for two days in beautiful Emerald Bay Marina, we left this morning for a 6 hour sail to Little Farmer’s Cay. The weather is forecast to turn nasty in a couple of days – two cold fronts, one after the other. So we’re planning to hunker down in Staniel Cay, where there is protection from the wind between two islands.

Meanwhile, we’re still on the water on rolling waves – almost there. I’ve been rehearsing my choir music and helping to navigate the boat, though the autopilot does the sailing on a long trip like this. We’ll head to Staniel Cay tomorrow – so glad to be back in paradise!

Post Script:

We are the only boat anchored in this gorgeous bay, under a full moon. We decided to treat ourselves to a rare dinner out at the near-by beautiful little restaurant and bar, right on the beach. Grouper, conch, Bahamian peas n’ rice, cold slaw and fries were a welcome change from our usual fare. The only downer - sand fleas chased us back to the boat L.

A Hiatus

Very sad news - Jeff's mom, Shyrle Solway, just passed away today, from a sudden heart attack at 98. She lived a good long life, and died the way we all would hope for.

So we're on our way back to Toronto for the funeral, leaving Sea Change safely harboured at Emerald Bay - just a two hour sail back from where we were yesterday.

This will be my last entry until we return to the boat - probably in the middle of next week.

"Talk" to you soon - Marilyn

A Study in Contrasts

We left the very upscale resort-like marina at Emerald Bay today – having enjoyed the clean hot showers, the beautiful clubhouse, the free laundry room, and the near-by use of the gorgeous Grand Isle resort facilities – gourmet restaurant, infinity pool, beautiful powdery ocean beach, etc.

We even took a long walk and ended up on a self-guided tour of Sandals Resort – the pics below will tell the story.

Then we went from the 360-degree protection of the marina harbour to the very rolly waters of Exuma Sound for a two-hour trip to Rat Cay (no rats involved J). This is totally opposite to what we had experienced in Emerald Bay – remote, open turquoise water on the Exuma Bank – only two other boats in sight. There are no services at all – we need to be completely self-sufficient here. But it’s just as gorgeous in its own way. Even the weather contrasted from a glorious sunny day this afternoon, to a dark stormy sky, resulting in a steady downpour at dinner-time, just after I blew my conch to the setting sun. As I write this, the only sound I hear now is the gentle lapping of the nearly still water against our little dinghy, tied up to Sea Change.

We’ll spend the next couple of days here, until we run out of supplies – then off to explore new places. This is so great!